An army of 8,000 at opening, the Wall by bike at dusk, lamb skewers where locals queue.
Pit One at 8:30 sharp, before the wave. Wang Fang grew up two streets away — this is a homecoming, not a history lecture. Afternoon: City Wall by bike, dumpling banquet with a view.
Morning at the Great Mosque and the Small Wild Goose Pagoda, then the Muslim Quarter crawl: liangpi, biangbiang noodles, pomegranate juice, lamb skewers at the stall with the longest local queue.
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